Quick Bites: Bodega Picarol
A traditional spot suited for languorous eating and drinking, with its mix of inside and outside seating — yet still holding on to an intimate feel. It happened to be just across from where I was staying, and I ended up visiting twice because it was so good at hitting the spot. And by ‘the spot’, I mean affordable, no-nonsense food and robust wines that leave you perfectly primed for a siesta — a cultural tradition I fully embraced on this trip.
On both occasions, I sat at the bar by the open window, perfect for people-watching and witnessing others outside enjoying the same experience.
“You’re coming for the laid-back atmosphere, the lack of pretension, and food and drink that do exactly what they’re supposed to: fill you up and get you a bit drunk.”
The tapas menu ran about two pages long, filled with variations on classic dishes. On my first visit, I ordered the patatas bravas, ham croquettes, Spanish omelette, and a glass of Rioja. It was simple and tasty, although I would probably skip the Spanish omelette next time — it was a little watery for me. The patatas bravas, however, were a solid example of the dish, and the portion size was generous.
The service here was reserved but sweet; the waitress mostly left me to myself but was happy to offer recommendations when I asked. For dessert, I went with her favourite — the cheesecake — which I enjoyed enough for what it was. The compote was a good, sharp addition, but it did come with another sauce I couldn't quite identify, which had a peppery aftertaste that confused me slightly... but not enough to stop me eating it all.
On my second visit, I was joined by a friend. We ordered the freshly sliced jamón (sliced by our waiter, who mentioned this to us with a proud smile when recommending it), along with pan con tomate. The bread on its own might have been a little too thin and crispy, but paired with the jamón, you could create your own makeshift sandwich — simple, salty, and satisfying. For dessert, we shared the lemon meringue, which I preferred to the cheesecake, though it was quite sweet, and definitely better shared.
Hand sliced jamón and pan con tomate
All in all, you’re not coming to Bodega Picarol for the food per se. You’re coming for the laid-back atmosphere, the lack of pretension, and food and drink that do exactly what they’re supposed to: fill you up and get you a bit drunk. Like your favourite PJs, you’re not wearing them thinking they’re the height of fashion—but they’re comforting, and you’ll find yourself returning to them again and again. You know what you’re getting with Bodega Picarol. It’s a bit rough around the edges, but it’s consistent — and that is nothing to turn your nose up at.
